Key takeaways
- No cosmetic treatment comes with a guaranteed result. Be wary of anyone who promises one.
- Laser resurfacing can improve texture and some scars, but downtime and pigment risk vary, and brown and Black skin carries a higher risk of lasting pigment change.
- Fillers are FDA-approved for specific areas. Rare but serious risks include blocked blood vessels and vision problems.
- Choose a licensed, specifically trained provider, and never buy filler online or inject yourself.
Start with the question, not the device
Cosmetic dermatology works best when it starts with what bothers you and why, not with a menu. Sometimes the best plan is daily sunscreen and a retinoid. Sometimes it's a procedure. Sometimes it's nothing at all. This guide explains what the evidence and the regulators say, so you can go into a consultation informed. It doesn't show before-and-after photos, because results vary from person to person.
Laser medicine and cosmetic dermatology are among Dr. Nathan's clinical and research interests. She has published studies on fractional laser treatment, on filler injection and on injection techniques.
Laser resurfacing
Laser resurfacing improves texture, fine lines, some scars and sun damage by controlled injury that prompts the skin to repair itself.1
- Ablative lasers (such as CO2 and erbium) remove the outer layer of skin. Results are more noticeable, and recovery is longer.
- Non-ablative lasers heat the skin below the surface without removing it. Recovery is gentler, results are subtler and build up gradually.
- Fractional delivery treats tiny columns of skin and leaves untreated skin between them. That speeds healing and lowers side effects. It's now the most widely used approach.
What recovery looks like. After ablative treatment, new skin usually covers the area in 7 to 10 days, and full recovery takes at least a month. After non-ablative treatment, redness or swelling often lasts hours, but two to four sessions are usually needed.1
Risks include prolonged redness, acne flares or milia, infection (often a cold-sore flare), scarring and changes in pigment. People with brown or Black skin have a higher risk of long-term darkening or lightening. Lasers aren't always off the table for darker skin, but device choice and settings are critical.1
Reasons to wait or avoid treatment include isotretinoin in the past year, a history of keloids, frequent cold sores, pregnancy, and some immune or connective tissue conditions.1
Results can last for years, but sun exposure and aging gradually undo them. Daily SPF 30+ sunscreen protects the investment.1
Dermal fillers
Fillers are FDA-approved for adults 22 and older for specific uses, such as smoothing moderate to severe facial wrinkles and adding volume to the lips, cheeks, chin and backs of the hands.2
The FDA has not approved fillers for breast or buttock augmentation or for some facial areas, and injectable silicone isn't approved for any cosmetic use.2
Common side effects are bruising, redness, swelling, tenderness and itching, which usually settle within days to weeks. Rare but serious risks include an accidental injection into a blood vessel, which can cause skin damage, vision problems including blindness, or stroke. Some reactions appear months or years later.2
The FDA warns: don't use needle-free filler devices, don't buy fillers online, and never inject yourself.2
Neuromodulators
Neuromodulators, often called by the brand name Botox, are prescription botulinum toxin products. They temporarily relax specific muscles to soften lines such as frown lines and crow's feet. Effects wear off over months, so treatment is repeated if you want to keep the result. They should be given by a licensed, trained clinician using products from a legitimate supplier.
Questions to ask at any consultation
- What can this realistically change for my skin, and what can't it change?
- How many sessions, how much downtime, and what does it cost in total?
- What are the risks for my skin tone, and how will you lower them?
- Who will do the treatment, and what is their training?
- Is the product or device FDA-approved or cleared for this use?
- What happens if there's a complication, and who do I call?
A good consultation leaves you free to say no.
When to see a doctor
After a filler injection, seek emergency care right away for vision changes, severe or unusual pain, skin that turns white, gray or blue, or any stroke symptoms. Call 911 if symptoms are severe. After a laser treatment, contact the office about spreading redness, pus, blisters or a fever.
Sources
- Mayo Clinic. Laser resurfacing: about (tests and procedures). View source (opens in a new tab)
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Dermal Fillers (Soft Tissue Fillers). Content current as of July 6, 2023. View source (opens in a new tab)
This article is general education for adults and isn't a substitute for personal medical advice. In an emergency, call 911.